The much-touted miracle cure
In numerous commercials, in magazine advertisements and in drugstores, happy women and men with firm, radiant skin smile at us, promoting hyaluronic acid as a rejuvenating beauty serum. But what exactly is hyaluronic acid? How does it work? What is it used for?
The history of hyaluronic acid
Liquid hyaluronic acid was first discovered in 1934 by two medical doctors, Karl Meyer and John Palmer, while researching bovine eyes. Initially, the substance was not used commercially in the cosmetics industry. In 1942, a baker in Budapest filed a patent to use hyaluronic acid for baked goods as an egg white substitute. It was not until the 1980s that it was used in cosmetics, where it was traded as a high-priced product. At that time, hyaluronic acid was still obtained exclusively from animal sources, primarily from rooster combs. The allergy potential was high.
Since 1997, biotechnological processes have been available that have made the fermentative production of hyaluronic acid from yeast possible. As a result, the allergy potential and also the risk of side effects could be significantly reduced, which helped this highly interesting substance to its triumphal march in the cosmetics industry.
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is not an acid, but a carbohydrate, more precisely a mucopolysaccharide, which occurs throughout the body. The complex structure can consist of several thousand sugars. When the molecules are not bound to each other, they bind to water, creating a gel-like material of high viscosity and pressure resistance. Hyaluronic acid is naturally produced by the human body.
Occurrence in the body
In the human body, the multiple sugar hyaluronic acid can be found in many places:
- in the connective tissue of the skin
- in the bones
- in the joint fluid (synovial fluid)
- in cartilage
- in the vitreous body of the eye
Due to its spatial structure, hyaluronic acid is able to bind large amounts of water. Its "lubricating" (viscoelastic) properties contribute to the friction-free mechanics of the joints. The substance keeps the skin's connective tissue taut and gives it shape, stability, and elasticity.
With age, the proportion of hyaluronic acid in the body decreases. As early as the age of 25, the body's production of the substance begins to decline.
Areas of application for hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is used in various fields:
- Orthopedic medicine: in the treatment of osteoarthritis (joint wear and tear).
- Anti-aging: wrinkle injections with hyaluronic acid have been offered since the 1980s.
- Cosmetics: products promise improvement in skin firmness, moisture, and elasticity. In addition, some should also be able to eliminate light wrinkles. In the list of ingredients, hyaluronic acid can be recognized as "Hyaluronic Acid" or "Sodium Hyaluronate".
- Hyaluron injections: injections with hyaluronic acid are used for the purpose of breast or lip enlargement.
- In food supplements - Dry eyes: many eye drops and gels for the treatment of dry eyes contain hyaluron.
- Dry skin: some creams and lotions such as body lotions and sunscreens contain hyaluron for moisturizing purposes.
How hyaluronic acid works
In a natural way, hyaluronic acid in various products and manners is intended to counteract the aging process, provide moisture, plump up, and more. What is the truth behind these promises?
Different variants of hyaluronic acid are used in products, achieving different effects:
- Long-chain versions have long molecular chains that do not penetrate the skin and therefore lie on the skin. In this way, moisture is bound to the uppermost layer of the skin. However, this film can be washed off quickly and the positive effects of smoothing and tightening the skin are short-term.
- Short-chain hyaluronic acid can penetrate into deeper layers of the skin. This allows it to bind water in the skin and plump the skin from the inside, reducing wrinkles. Moisture can be stored in the skin for longer, although no long-term change is to be expected.
Hyaluronic acid injected into the skin by medical professionals lasts even longer. This only breaks down after several months and results in a plumping and tightening of the skin.
Ultimately, it can be stated that hyaluronic acid supports the body with its specific properties, such as high water binding, pressure resistance, and viscosity. Differences in the duration of action are due to the form of intake.